Trick or Treat!

Yesterday was Halloween but the tricks had been going on for weeks! Our 18 year old outboard engine has been dying a slow death. It started with bad fuel. We purchased gas at the Prickly Bay Marina and immediately started to have problems. We found out later that the marina ran out of fuel shortly after we purchased ours. Apparently we got the dregs, the sludge at the bottom of the barrel. Jim filtered the fuel several times, cleaned the hoses, filters, fuel pump and carburetor, changed spark plugs, etc. We can't keep the engine running. Now it seems as though it might be electrical. Given the age of the engine, it just isn't worth putting money in to it. Plus you can't buy parts for an 18 yr old engine anywhere in the Caribbean. So here's where the treat part comes in! We have a new outboard! We're sure there have been bets placed by our friends on how long it would take us to break down and buy a new one. (Jacumba, Whisper - any winners?) We don't spend large amounts of money easily! We are now the owners of a new Mercury 5 HP. Contain your excitement! We debated for days, wanting to buy more horse-power but not liking the extra weight that comes with it. We finally decided to give up speed and go with a lighter motor. When we're on a passage we put the outboard up on the stern rail. One of us stands in the dinghy, which is more than 5 ft below the rail and usually rocking, and lifts the 45 lb. engine up to the other person who is standing in the cockpit waiting to heft it the last few feet to the rail. Larger engines weigh 60 lbs and more. We are firm believers in keeping things simple and easy. So we won't be fast but then why do we need to be? The one thing we have is time. Now we are shopping for a dinghy. We are keeping our old one afloat but who knows for how much longer. It's interesting shopping in the Caribbean. Your choices are very limited. Only 2 brands of engines were available and not in the horsepower we wanted. The same seems to be true with dinghies. The chandleries stock very few sizes so you either have to compromise or wait until you visit another island. So my guess is that we'll hem and haw for awhile longer.

Last night was an example of a typical evening with cruisers. It started with us meeting Peter on "Appleseeds" for happy hour at the Tiki Bar. We first met Peter and Eileen in March of 2007 in Bimini, Bahamas and haven't seen them since we were in Nassau. Peter just arrived back in Grenada from Vancouver and is getting Appleseeds ready to launch this week. Happy Hour evolved into dinner at Martin's Marina where we hooked up with some friends of Peter's and then their friends, some of our friends, and so on and so on..... There ended up being 10 of us at dinner and we had a really great time. Cruiser get-togethers are impromptu and relaxed. One of the women we met was raised in Oshkosh, WI, just 60 miles from our hometown. Small world!

We hear that lots of boats left Trinidad this morning bound for Grenada, many of our friends among them. We're looking forward to seeing them all!

Dominoes and Dirty Dancing?!?!

It's been a busy, fun-filled week! It's great having Whisper, Jacumba and Merengue back together. We've been sailing, gone for happy hour and pizza, done some island exploring and had a great party on Jacumba.

The other day we decided to go to one of the waterfalls on the island. The most economical way of traveling is by bus and the bus system on Grenada is great. We headed across the island to the Mt. Carmel Falls for a hike and a swim. The hike turned out to be a short one, only about 10 minutes from the road. But the waterfall was beautiful.

Mike and Hans getting a water massage!

Kristen provides an action shot!

Hans, Kristen and Mike.

Next another bus ride to Grenville where we had lunch and then a tour of one of the Nutmeg factories. Grenada is known as the Spice Island and was once the largest producer of nutmeg in the world. But 4 years ago Hurricane Ivan changed all that when it destroyed many of the nutmeg trees on the island. Production is only at 10% of what it used to be and will take many more years to be at the previous level.

Kristen snapped this picture of nutmeg drying in the factory. There are row after row of these muti-level racks filled with nutmeg. Each day someone rakes the nutmeg to assure that it all drys perfectly. The entire process is still very labor intensive which gives you an appreciation for what goes into bringing the consumer these wonderful spices.

The bus ride back across the island was a scary one! We are used to the buses in town with drivers that don't scare the pants off of you! Apparently the bus drivers on the longer routes across the island are in a bigger hurry. After all, more trips mean more paying customers. We all held on and occasionally closed our eyes as he sped around turns on the hilly, twisting road. The cost for all that excitement was only about $3.25 U.S. per person one-way.

Next day, another session of Mexican Train Dominoes. Jacumba was planning to depart and we thought we'd get one more game in. Besides, we had a little surprise planned for the loser! Renee was talking trash the day before, threatening the crew of Merengue with a big loss. So it was pure justice that she lost BIG and became the first recipient of our traveling loser trophy, a Domino Dunce hat.

The hat was originally a drogue for a life ring that we picked up at a swap meet. After a few decorations it became the perfect dunce hat, complete with a vent at the top to let out the steam of the wearer!

The loser must wear the hat during our next match until they can pass it on to the next loser. Although it looks good on Renee, don't you think? Perhaps she should be allowed to keep it. We probably won't get to play again for a few months so she has a lot of time to savor her trophy!

Thursday night was a farewell dinner on Jacumba with Merengue, Whisper and Fine Line. Renee and Mike left Friday for St. Martin where Jacumba will be for sale with a broker. After a great meal we all took turns shaking an ice cream maker that Whisper has on board. It was pretty funny watching every one's technique as we all took turns shaking. Renee took pictures of all the action. For a complete look at the fun visit http://www.jacumbaatsea.blogspot.com/.



While Jim was shaking the ice cream, the music switched to the song "I Like Big Butts" so I felt compelled to shake my butt. Looks like we got caught doing a little dirty dancing!

Jacumba pulled out on Friday and we were very sad to see them go. We'll miss them until we catch up again in St. Martin a few months from now. Stay tuned for the next big loser in the on-going domino challenge!

Sailing with Whisper

Just 2 days after our sail on Jacumba and we're out again, this time on Whisper. Hans and Kristen thought that Mike and Renee should get to experience mono-hull sailing so off we all went. Whisper is a 27' Albin Vega and boy is she sweet! I took the tiller for a while and thoroughly enjoyed stearing her through the waves. I'm not sure everyone else enjoyed it because I did manage to splash them a few times. Guess I've lost my touch. I haven't steered with a tiller since we sold our Catalina 22.

Kristin adjusting the sail.

kitkat (Whisper's kitty) looking less than interested in our adventure.

Mike takes a turn at the tiller.
Wendy and Renee enjoying the day.


Another fun day of sailing. Merengue's starting to feel the pressure! We might have to pull up that anchor and take everyone sailing!

On another note, we've had some inquiries regarding Jim's shoulder. He still can't lift his arm over his head. He can't even lift a fork to his mouth. He bends to meet the food half way. However, he has improved and has less pain. He probably has a tear. He says this because he knows what it feels like as he has injured this shoulder before. So he knows that he has months of recuperation ahead of him. He thanks everyone for their concern. He hasn't learned to eat with his left hand but interestingly enough he can drink left-handed!

Jacumba the Party Boat

"The Time Flies When You're Having Rum."

It was a cruising party on Jacumba!

Renee and Mike invited a group of friends for a day of cruising on board Jacumba, their 37' Island Spirit catamaran. Several people couldn't make it but as usual, the crew on Merengue and Whisper and Mike and Reneee's friend Lincus were in for the adventure.

Our destination was a snorkling site called The Statues where statues have been placed underwater. We had a beautiful sail there but arrived to find the visibility was only a few feet. Looks like things are still stirred up from the storms that past through the caribbean last week. The 7 of us swam all around the bay but we couldn't spot any of the statues. Oh well, back on deck for great food, drinks and music before setting sail back to Prickly Bay.

Renee, our beautiful and capable captain.

Kristin riding in the bow seat.
Hans cooling his heels at the stern.
A 37' catamaran has an incredible amount of space for everyone to move about and get comfortable.
Hans, Mike and Renee.


More "limin" on deck

Mike going for a drag behind Jacumba.

Spread out along the bow and settling all the worlds' problems!
Jim, Hans, Mike and Lincus.

Back in Prickly Bay we fired up the grill, pulled out the rest of the food and had a great dinner on board. It was a wonderful day! As often as we are on other peoples' boats we never go sailing with them. This was a first and we really had a great time. Thanks Mike and Renee!

The 600th Hash!

Saturday, October 4, 2008

The Grenada Hash House Harriers celebrate their 600th hash!

It's as though Mother Nature knows we are going hashing. After weeks of dry weather, Grenada was deluged with rain Friday night and Saturday morning. If it was any other hash we probably would have skipped it. But it's the 600th! We have to go be with the crowds, hash, drink beer and get our commemorative T-shirt.

The drive to the forested area of Petite Etang was breathtaking. Grenada is a beautiful island. When we arrived at the race site we could see that the road and the area around the beer and food tents was a sea of mud. No doubt in Jim's mind that he would be hashing. Lots of doubt in Wendy's mind. You'll remember from our last hash update that I vowed to never do another muddy hash! In honor of the 600th celebration there were 3 trails to choose from, a walkers, a runners and an Iron Man. Mike (Jacumba) decided to tackle the iron man, Jim and Renee the runners' trail and I stuck with the walkers'.

Here's Jim hanging out at the beer tent prior to the hash. Notice the mud!

Walkers heading out at the start. This part of the trail was beautiful and I found myself saying "if it could just all be like this." Then it hit me. It can! I decided right then that I really wasn't up for sloshing through the mud. What I wanted was a beautiful hike through the countryside. So that's what I did. I walked out the trail for about 15 minutes and then doubled back. Then I walked down the road a bit and then back up to where the race finished. It was beautiful, peaceful and I thoroughly enjoyed the solitude.


Here's Jim coming up the trail to the finish. He was running through a muddy area when he stepped in a hole and slipped, catching himself with his hand as he fell. He came down pretty hard and pulled something in his right shoulder. He cannot lift his arm above his head. Looks like he has a long recuperation ahead of him.

Jim, Renee and Mike with their incentive to run, an ice cold Carib at the finish. If it could only be this big!

There was plenty of food to go along with the beer. Grilled chicken or the traditional "Oil Down" were the fare of the day.

I think we're done hashing for awhile (Jim just read this and says he's not done). Jim needs to let his shoulder rest and we'll be leaving Grenada in about a month. But we hear they hash in Antigua so who knows!

Otherwise things have been quiet here. We play dominoes occassionally, go to the occassional happy hour with other cruisers or out for pizza. We've been at the sports bar alot lately watching the Milwaukee Brewers in the play-offs but that ended yesterday with their loss to the Phillies. Friends who spent the season in Trinidad are starting to work their way back this way so we're looking forward to seeing all of them. Life in Grenada continues to be good!

Oil Down

Saturday we went to an Oil Down. Oil Down is the national dish of Grenada. Traditionally made by the men over an open fire (kind of like men in the states like to barbeque) an oil down is a pot full of vegetables, meat and spices. The key ingredients in oil down are breadfruit, meat (chicken, pork or fish), coconut, callaloo (similar to spinach), tumeric and dumplings but you can add other vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots, green bananas and green papaya.

Jim got right in there and helped Cutty peel and cut up the breadfruit. Cutty is a taxi driver and gives tours around the island. He arranged the oil down at a rum shack (bar) in his neighborhood and invited the yachties to come and learn how to make oil down while we hung out with him and his friends.

More cruisers get in on the act under the close supervision of an expert.

The ladies grated the coconut and tumeric.

Everything is layered into the pot, starting with the breadfruit and meat and ending with the callaloo.

Add a little local pepper sauce for flavor.

Water is poured over the grated coconut and tumeric and then it is squeezed to create milk.

Pour the coconut milk over the top, cover and let it simmer for about 1 1/2 hours.

This is Andy, our supervising chef for the day. Ruby and her grandson are in the background. All the men were eager to share their ideas and I'm sure there are friendly rivalries and competion among the chefs. Andy told me that they make oil down "all de time" during breadfruit season. The neighborhood gathers together to share a pot along with some rum, beer and conversation just like we'd gather together our friends and family for a backyard barbeque. It was great!

Cutty serving up the Oil Down.

This was a great experience, something you don't get to do on your typical vacation to the islands. The people were warm and friendly, as eager to meet us as we were them. I chatted with Ruby and her daughter who let me play with her 10 week old baby. Cutty took us for a walk around the area and pointed out the various plants growing in the lush countryside. Later Jim got an education in how to buy rum in a bar by 2 of the guys. Apparently only the tourists buy a rum and coke. Locals purchase a quantity of rum that is then poured into a smaller bottle, then mix it with coke or water. It's much more cost effective this way and you mix it the way you like it. As we were leaving the guys were giving Jim their phone numbers and telling him to call if he needed anything! We had a wonderful time!

Ladies Day

Wednesday was Ladies Day.

One of the cruisers set up a day of touring that was just for the ladies. It was a nice opportunity to meet women and enjoy each others' company. Our first stop was an herb garden, a 2 acre site dedicated to growing local herbs. Our guide explained all the uses as she walked us through the garden. "Boil this one and make a tea. It's good for headaches, colds, fever, cramps. Make a poultice with this. It cures rashes and skin irritations."

This woman is scrapping the bark off of cinnamon trees. As the pieces of bark dry, they curl up forming the cinnamon sticks you buy in the stores.

Our next stop was a t-shirt factory where you can purchase t-shirts at very reasonable prices. You pick the size, color and design you want and they print it up while you wait. I just roamed around and watched the other women shop. Jim and I don't need more t-shirts! There's no more room on this little boat!

Lunch was at the Aquarium Restaurant, a lovely restaurant on a beautiful stretch of beach. Most of the women were cruisers from the States or Canada who, like me have been cruising for a few years, primarily in the Caribbean. Because we've had requests for more info on the people we meet, I thought I'd share a couple of stories. Judy (1st on left) on the S/V Bodacious is from New Zealand. She and her husband Barry did their first circumnavigation a few years back. Upon returning to New Zealand they sold their boat thinking they were through. They soon realized their mistake and recently purchased a boat here in Grenada. They're headed for the Bahamas, United States and Europe. Tracy (3rd from the right) on the S/V Genesis has been crewing on boats in the states for 20 years. She and her husband have their own boat now and are offering charters in the Grenadines. Another Judy (2nd from the right) on S/V Veleda has been cruising for over 10 years spending several years in Europe. The stories are varied and interesting. Most of these women cannot picture themselves ever living on land again.

After lunch there was time for swimming and snorkling. These are shots of the beach taken from the Aquarium Restaurant.

I want to go back, this time with Jim so we can enjoy this beautiful spot together.

As an after note, we recieved many favorable comments both via e-mail and on our blog regarding our 2 year anniversary update. Thank you all. We're glad you enjoyed it.